PFAS in Cosmetic Raw Materials

PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), commonly known as 'forever chemicals,' are under increasing scrutiny in the cosmetics industry. This whitepaper provides formulators, procurement teams, and brand managers with a comprehensive overview of PFAS in cosmetic raw materials, including high-risk INCI names, supplier checklists, quality control strategies, and regulatory context.

PFAS-Related INCI / Ingredient Name Red Flags

The following INCI names and naming patterns are strongly associated with PFAS content or contamination. Any raw material listing these should be considered high risk unless the supplier provides proof of PFAS-free status.

Category / Function	Example INCI / Name	Comments / Notes
Fluorinated silicones / silanes	Perfluorohexylethyl triethoxysilane	Used in water-resistant coatings
Fluorinated silicones / silanes	Perfluorononyl dimethicone	Fluorinated dimethicone derivative
Fluorinated polymers	PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene)	Common PFAS found in powders and primers
Fluorinated polymers	Fluoroacrylate copolymer	Film former in long-wear cosmetics
Fluorinated solvents	Perfluorodecalin	Oxygen-carrying solvent in specialty formulas
Fluorinated solvents	Perfluorohexane	Volatile PFAS solvent
Fluorinated surfactants	C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate	Fluorinated surfactant
Fluorinated surfactants	Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy PEG-2 Phosphate	Complex fluorinated phosphate derivative

Supplier / Raw Material PFAS Questionnaire & Checklist

Use the following questionnaire as part of your raw material supplier onboarding and audit process. It ensures visibility into PFAS risks and enforces proactive supplier compliance.

• Provide a full composition statement including all declared INCI components and trace impurities.

• List CAS numbers or structures for all ingredients, especially any fluorinated components.

• Disclose use of PFAS or fluorinated substances in the manufacturing process.

• Provide Total Fluorine (TF) and PFAS (LC-MS/MS) analysis results if available.

• Confirm cross-contamination controls (equipment cleaning, process segregation).

• Provide PFAS-free declarations or certificates of analysis.

• Disclose phase-out plans and PFAS-free alternatives if PFAS are present.

• Acknowledge regulatory compliance with current and upcoming PFAS restrictions.

Incorporating the Checklist into QC Workflow

1. Screen all new and existing raw materials against PFAS red-flag INCI lists.

2. Require supplier declarations and certificates of analysis confirming PFAS-free status.

3. Perform total fluorine screening and targeted PFAS testing on high-risk batches.

4. Document all supplier communications, declarations, and test results.

5. Monitor regulatory updates and adjust supplier requirements accordingly.

PFAS Risk Tiering for Raw Materials

A tiered risk system helps prioritize which raw materials require more frequent testing.

Tier	Risk Level	Example Materials	Recommended QC
Tier 1	High	PTFE, fluorinated silicones, volatile PFAS solvents	100% batch testing (TF + LC-MS/MS)
Tier 2	Moderate	Waxes, emulsifiers with potential contamination	Periodic screening, random testing
Tier 3	Low	Non-fluorinated oils, common surfactants	Occasional spot checks, supplier declaration only

Conclusion & Call to Action

PFAS are rapidly becoming a compliance and brand-reputation issue in cosmetics. Formulators and procurement teams should proactively screen materials, require supplier declarations, and implement PFAS-free sourcing strategies. Early action will reduce regulatory risk and position brands as leaders in responsible, clean beauty.

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