Natural way of stimulating collagen production and cosmetic formulas
- annolim
- Oct 23
- 2 min read
Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) forms biological bonds with skin components not by direct covalent bonding, but by creating protective and restorative biological interactions through its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Its functions by scavenging free radicals that damage skin cells and the extracellular matrix, inhibiting enzymes like matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that degrade collagen and other proteins, and activating signaling pathways that promote skin cell survival and repair, such as increasing the expression of protective proteins like Bcl-2 and stimulating collagen synthesis.
Antioxidant and Free Radical Scavenging
Mechanism
EGCG's hydroxyl groups (a functional group in chemistry, written as -OH, consisting of one oxygen atom and one hydrogen atom bonded together) make it a potent antioxidant, effectively neutralizing free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by environmental stressors like UV radiation.
Effect on Skin
This scavenging action prevents oxidative damage to DNA, proteins, and other vital cellular components, protecting against premature aging and UV-induced damage.
Matrix Metalloproteinase (MMP) Inhibition
Mechanism
EGCG inhibits MMP enzymes, which are responsible for breaking down the extracellular matrix (ECM) and collagen in the skin.
Effect on Skin
By reducing MMP activity, EGCG helps to preserve the integrity of the dermal structure, preventing the degradation of collagen and other structural proteins that maintain skin firmness.
Collagen Synthesis
EGCG activates pathways that stimulate the production of collagen, a key structural protein in the skin.
Apoptosis Inhibition
It promotes the survival of skin cells by increasing the expression of pro-survival proteins like Bcl-2 and decreasing pro-apoptotic proteins like Bax. It also activates survival-promoting pathways like Akt and Erk signaling.
Increased Epidermal Thickness
EGCG can stimulate the proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes, leading to a thicker, healthier epidermis.
The richest source of Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) is green tea, where it is the predominant catechin and can comprise over 50% of the total catechins. High-quality Japanese green teas like matcha, gyokuro, and sencha are particularly rich in EGCG. Other foods like cocoa products, apples, pears, and various berries contain smaller amounts of EGCG.
Key considerations while using in cosmetic formula
Stability: EGCG is sensitive to oxidation. Stabilizing it with antioxidants, polymers, and nanocarrier systems is crucial for both manufacturing and product longevity.
Penetration: To deliver EGCG effectively into the skin, consider using penetration enhancers or formulating it in a carrier system like ethosomes or SLNs.
pH: Maintain an acidic pH throughout the process.
Temperature: Avoid high temperatures during manufacturing and storage to prevent oxidation.
Antioxidant synergy: Consider formulating with other antioxidants like Vitamin C, as it can increase the stability of EGCG and provide synergistic benefits.
References
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